How To Sharpen New Holland Baler Knives

1. I'm at a loss, when the twine is captured past the knives before tying starts everything works perfectly. For some reason, when the twine cuts off at completion, it won't stay under the knives every time. If I load the next bale and try to tie, sometimes they both work, sometimes simply one side works. I finish up stopping the baler and resetting the twine under the knives. I remember the twine is getting stretched during tying and recoils when information technology cuts. The routing of the twine is pretty basic, I do detect that information technology rubs on the main frame on both sides, but that's factory routing. Whatsoever input is appreciated.
   Cheers

2. 

   John C. Senior Member

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   Is at that place any play in the knotters? My nephew's square baler had the same sort of trouble and they found out at that place were bushings within that were worn letting the thing change position just as it was about to be cut.

3. Cheers for the respond but it's a round baler, a lot less complicated than a square baler, but beingness a pain all the same. Square bale knotters tin can exist finicky.
   Thanks

4. I'd check to see if there is a groove worn in the cord brake,string won't cutting properly if in that location is

5. Looked at the drag clamps seem ok, but I did observe there is more elevate on cord when in the cut position. Someone has repaired the twine artillery, they did a decent plenty job not to find unless you look closer. I'thousand going to do some rework on that. Is it possible that the clamping force on the knives is too loftier, would bankroll information technology off allow some string to pull through earlier it cuts. Tough to experiment while baling, but need to bale for testing... hmmm. Peradventure the twine I'k using is as well stretchy.

6. Chiliad'24-hour interval 200lc1, There should be a mechanism that releases the drag on the twine to let information technology to feed into the bale,and then the drag is firm right through to cutoff. It needs a fair scrap of resistance for the knives to cut. We use a thinner twine for round bales (not the thick stuff for small square bales) Hope this helps. Nib

7. There is a leap loaded clamp assy that sets the elevate up in the twine storage compartment, it isn't arm position dependent. Makes sense that at that place should be more than elevate at the cut position, sometimes but have to hear it from somebody else to make sense. That extra elevate seems to come from steeper angles created in the twine routing when the artillery are retracted. It is the thinner round bale twine, merely I did merely put in new twine. I know my foursquare baler is sensitive to brands of twine, but that's pretty much knotter adjustment related. Maybe information technology's cutting normally and the trouble is that it isn't feeding onto bale consistently. The other baler, I had used, captured the cut ends of the twine under the knives each time. This one does that inconsistently, I approximate I'll have to find a aforementioned model baler to see what the twine tubes/arms are supposed to wait similar. The parts book simply shows an exploded cad picture. Like I say, these part, but have been repaired.
   Thanks

8. 

   wrwtexan Senior Fellow member

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   The twine doesn't have to exist held by the knives as when working properly, it can be hand cut and left loose. If it isn't putting the twine into the bale, bank check the tapered plunger at the ends of the twine arms. Every bit they swing downwards, they extend and the plunger has to hold the twine and its tag out so it is pulled under the bale. The socket will become a cutting in it and it then can't hold the twine. I've repaired many by cutting the end off and replacing information technology with a short section of wrist pin which is much harder than original.

9. Kind of what I was wondering, no same serial balers around to compare to. Last dark I made a temporary set of leap loaded plungers for the arm ends, which were missing. They did feed properly most of the fourth dimension even without being retained by the knives. Those were my last bales for the season, so I know, now, how I need to repair the arms properly in the off season. It's pretty spendy to buy the parts from the dealer, especially for a baler showing about 28000 bales (somebody else definitely got there moneys worth).
   What I still don't become is that one side almost always gets defenseless by the knife and feeds properly (even every bit information technology was), a mystery... The wrist pivot is a expert idea, I was looking through all my scraps and junk to find suitable end material. Unfortunately, no loose wrist pins laying around, just a adept thought all the aforementioned.

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Source: https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/nh-650-round-baler-twine-issues.61332/

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